Goan Cooking by Gilda Mendonsa

The tiny state of Goa had always depended on spices, fish and coconut. In 1492 it was taken by the Portuguese who occupied it until 1962. Christianity prevails and there are no objections to eating pork or beef. Modern Goan curries are based on all these ingredients, often combined with palm todi (feni) vinegar to create a gently unique sour taste. Goans are mostly non-vegetarian. Meat is usually confined to Sundays. Fish is mandatory at least once a day in the Goan diet. Bread-making was introduced by the Portuguese and though rice is important to Goa, bread takes precedence and is eaten with most meals. Portuguese dishes, some unspiced, are to be found on the Goan menu. Many have evolved to be unique to Goa, with the addition of spices and coconut, yet have Portuguese names such as Cafreal, Xacutti and their most famous dish, Vindaloo. But it is not the dish from the standard curry house; the real thing is derived from the Portuguese dish Vino d’Alhos, traditionally pork marinated (the longer the better) in wine vinegar and garlic, then simmered until tender. To this the Goans added hot red chillies, creating a rich red curry gravy. But nothing is simple in Goa. Many dishes can appear with two different names in Portuguese or Goan (Konkani). And even same-named dishes can be cooked in different ways by the three different Goan communities. The majority of the population is Christian (Catholic) who eat everything including pork and beef and use plentiful chillies, todi-vinegar and sugar for piquancy, sweet and sour tastes. There is also a significant Goan Hindu population. Hindu Goans use less heat, tamarind or kokum for souring and jaggery for sweetening. The use asafoetida, chick peas, curry leaves, fenugreek, mustard and urid dhal. They don’t eat beef, of course, and generally abstain from pork. Goa was occupied by Moslems for centuries before the Portuguese and there is still a significant Goan Moslem population. They do not eat pork or beef, mutton (goat) being their preferred meat, and the rather more complex dishes from Kashmir and the Moghals (Roghan Josh Gosht, kormas and birianis) are to be found in the Goan Muslim home. 

Description and picture to follow.

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